Eirinn: Day 1 | Journal | Isle of Albion

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Eirinn: Day 1

Saturday 1st September 2007

I'd last visited in Ireland in 2006 and the weather had remained gloomy for most of the trip. Bristol had been sunny, but touching down in Shannon, the clouds had moved in and the weather was looking dismal. Nevertheless, before travelling down to the Beara Peninsula, I was determined to visit Quin Abbey. The return flight from Shannon was very early in the day, so I knew this was the only chance I'd get.

Quin Abbey is frustrating. After strolling round this magnificent ruin, photographing it and appreciating its beauty, it's a huge disappointment to discover a metal gate blocking the only entrance to the interior. Is it ever opened? I really don't know. I've read other accounts that suggest it is, but there was no indication of opening hours or times - and this was early on a Saturday afternoon. Like much of Ireland's heritage, Quin Abbey feels neglected and undervalued. However, it's still a striking ruin and well worth a visit.

Travelling south from Shannon airport inevitably involves passing through the village of Adare. I was therefore glad to find the sky clearing slightly: not a lot, but enough to allow for a dramatic photograph of the glorious Desmond Castle, sitting astride the bank of the River Mague.

Although a beautiful site, this castle does again the tone for much of Ireland's heritage - neglected and abandoned. Unlike Britain, Ireland has yet to capitalise on many of its ancient ruins, and whilst this does ensure that such sites retain their romantic charm and seclusion, some places - such as Desmond Castle - are rendered inaccessible. Fortunately in this particular instance, things are changing. Heritage funding has been secured, and the castle is in the process of renovation. No doubt it will soon become a major tourist attraction - with all the benefits and sacrifices that such a change entails.

After stopping in Adare, the late hour left little time for exploration, and so the rest of the day was an uneventful drive down towards Cork and Kerry.

Kenmare is the nearest town to the Beara Peninsula, and therefore the easiest place for the traveller in this region to seek supplies and sustenance. Compared to many small Irish towns, Kenmare is a real find. It manages to pull off a wonderful juggling act, retaining its essential Irish character, whilst at the same time capturing a bustling Bohemian vibe. Kenmare serves both the local community and the sizeable tourist population with equal enthusiasm, and the result is a town of unique character and distinction.

The centre of Kenmare is small, with most of its shops spread out along two main streets, but it does have a few little nooks and crannies to explore, providing added interest. Despite its size, the constant flow of tourist during the summer months means that Kenmare always has a pleasantly vibrant feel. European tourists seem more prevalent here than the English variety, and maybe this goes some way towards explaining another of Kenmare's strengths: its food. Kenmare is home to many fine eateries, and the quality and variety of food is a cut above what you're likely to find in similar Irish towns. Additionally, a number of delicatessens and cafes compliment the selection of pubs and restaurants, making shopping in Kenmare a real pleasure.

Kenmare does have another distinction to set it apart from other towns: its own stone circle. However, it was already late by the time provisions were acquired, and the stones would have to keep for another day.