If you journey today along the old border between England and Wales, you'll find yourself in Marcher country. This was England's old western frontier, and the most lawless part of the kingdom. As the Norman nobles struggled to secure their hold over the realm, they were under constant threat of incursions from the Welsh princes who raided and pillaged the rich lands along the border.

So it was that William the Conqueror sought to subdue the threat of the Welsh with the creation of the Marcher Lords (the term originating from the Anglo-Saxon "mearc", meaning "boundary"). To over 150 of his most loyal nobles, he made land-grants along the Welsh border - and this region became collectively known as the Welsh Marches.

However, the border territories were not in themselves a gift worth the giving. William needed men there that he could trust, but he needed to be seen to be rewarding rather than punishing such men. Also, the lands were dangerous, presenting unique risks and challenges. Accordingly, William granted his Marcher Lords the right to rule their lands as they saw fit, free from accountability to the crown. This was an immense privilege, enabling these nobles to build castles without royal license, raise armies and wage wars, administer laws and settle towns. In short, many of the powers and freedoms that were traditionally the prerogative of the king.

This new frontier created new centres of power, with Chester, Shrewsbury and Hereford established as major Marcher cities, home to powerful earls. Chepstow, Ludlow, Monmouth, Hay-on-Wye and Powis were other major Marcher towns, defended by impressive Norman fortifications. All along the border, castles sprang up where the Marcher Lords sought to consolidate their lands and defend their borders. Nobles and peasants alike flocked from England and Europe to server under their banner and take advantage of the many opportunities that these lands offered.

For many years, The Marcher Lords played a crucial role not only in defending the border, but also in extending the power of the Norman king into Wales. This lasted right up until Edward I finally crushed the Welsh and brought their lands under the English crown. From this time, their role became less vital and their powers disproportionate. Edward sought to clip the wings of the Marcher Lords, and their influence waned during the 12th and 13th Centuries. However, it was not until 1536 that the Marcher territories were formally united with England and their independence removed.

Today, the Welsh Marches continue to retain a distinct character of their own. The land still has the feel of a border country, caught up between the realms of England and Wales. Towns like Chepstow and Ludlow are still gateways to the west, and the pace of life along the line of the March is still notably slower. Urban sprawl is slight, and the countryside rolls gently along the edge of Wales, not quite settled and subdued, one foot firmly in the past.

For the interested traveller, the legacy of the Marcher Lords is everywhere. Castles litter the border in abundance - White Castle, Grosmont Castle, Goodrich Castle, Clun Castle, Chepstow Castle, Ludlow Castle - nowhere else in Britain is the stamp of medieval Norman power so abundant or so well preserved. The ruins that remain are often impressive, set in spectacular countryside and away from the bustle of the modern world. Towns like Ludlow, Chepstow and Shrewsbury still retain their medieval character, and still retain the feel of outpost towns on the edge of the world. The mountains of Wales always lurk to the west, dark and foreboding, challenging the English to enter if they dare.