
Dunster is dominated by its castle, which rises up on a hill above the town, commanding the landscape for miles around. It also lends the village its name - 'dun' meaning fortified settlement, and 'tor' meaning hill.Unfortunately, the medieval castle was destroyed by Cromwell's troops and subsequent generations of occupants have ensured that the gatehouse is all that remains of the original fortification. The 'castle' that stands on the site today is mostly Victorian.
The history of Dunster dates back at least as far as Saxon times. It's believed to have been settled around 700AD, although prehistoric earthworks around the uplands suggest still earlier activity at the site. The real growth of Dunster began after the Norman invasion though when William de Mohun built the original medieval castle. It was also at this time that the church settled here, founding Dunster's priory at William's invitation.
Much of Dunster's subsequent wealth was generated by trade passing through its busy harbour. In Norman times, the sea ran all the way up the flood plain to the town, making it an important port - Dunster Haven. However, silting became an increasing problem, and the sea slowly receded. By the 15th Century, the port was in decline. By the time Elizabeth I came to the throne, it had retreated completely. Today, Dunster is 2 miles from the sea.
As the see receded, Dunster came to rely more heavily on its wool and cloth industries. These were the basis of its wealth for the next few hundred years, although we can assume from the gradual decline of the town that these did not compensate for the loss of the port. By the 18th Century, the textile industry was under pressure from the great mechanised mills of the North and Dunster's economy was in collapse. According to the antiquarian, John Collinson, writing in 1791 "the town of Dunster itself is inconsiderable, consisting chiefly of two streets... the principal street is ... blocked up in the middle by an old market cross, and a long range of old, ruinous shambles".
Dunster did subsequently enjoy a brief recovery as a trading centre, but it never again enjoyed its previous wealth. However, this ill-fortune may well have been responsible for the under-development that has preserved so much of the town's ancient character - Dunster currently retains over 200 listed buildings.
When visiting Dunster, the remains of the old priory are amongst the village's finest features. Easy to miss, they can be found by following the lane that snakes round behind the church. The priory gate still stands over the road and the monk's medieval dovecote is one of the best surviving examples from the period. Opposite it are the priory barn and priory gardens. Other buildings survive, but these are in private hands.
Also worth seeing are the 17th Century yarn market on the High Street, the medieval Gallox packhorse bridge and "The Nunnery" - a 14th Century building believed to have served as a guest-house for the priory.
Despite the unfortunate lack of a medieval castle, Dunster still retains a lot of period character. It's a quiet little backwater that possesses an understated charm that makes it an enjoyable and relaxing place to visit. The village itself is beautiful and there's plenty of secluded countryside right on the doorstep for those who enjoy walking. I stayed in one of the old priory buildings (linked on the left and highly recommended) which helped enhance the ambiance of my visit.