The ruins of Tintagel Castle sit on a rocky outcrop separated from the Cornish mainland by a rocky chasm. At one time, they were joined by a narrow causeway, but this finally eroded away at some point during the 15th or 16th Century. It is from this that the name "Tintagel" is derived, with the Cornish "Din Tagell" meaning "fortress of the narrow entrance".

The first evidence of people occupying the site comes from finds of coins and pottery dated to the later periods of Roman occupation during the 3rd and 4th Centuries. However, no buildings date from that period. Following the withdrawal of the Romans, Cornwall was established as the independent kingdom of Dumnonia, which existed from the 5th to the 8th Century. During this time, archaeologists believe that Tintagel was inhabited by either a local warlord or possibly successive Dumnonian kings. It has also been suggested that these monarchs did not favour permanent settlements, but would rather travel around the kingdom during the course of the year. Whatever the case, the settlement was made more defensible during this time, with the addition of a large ditch to protect the approach from the headland. The earliest stone buildings (including a 5th or 6th Century palace) at the site also date back to the Dumnonian era.

Little is known about the history of Tintagel Castle between the Dumnonians and the arrival of the Normans - a significant gap spanning a good 600 years. In 1225AD, Richard, 1st Earl of Cornwall, acquired the site from Gervase de Tintagel. By 1233AD Richard had built a Norman castle and was keen to establish a connection to the Arthurian legends recently popularised by Geoffrey of Monmouth. To this end, the castle was constructed in a more antique style than that of its contemporaries in the hope that this might convey an impression of greater age.

Tintagel Castle did not survive long into the Norman period. Richard's successors had little interest in the fortress, and it finally fell into the hands of the High Sheriff of Cornwall to be used as a prison with the land let out as pasture. By the 1330s, the roof had been removed from the great hall and the castle was falling into a state of decay. The land bridge was already beginning to erode, and by the time Sir Richard Grenville visited in 1583AD, a makeshift bridge of tree trunks was all that allowed access to the island.

The final military use of Tintagel Castle came during the 1580s when England was under threat of Spanish invasion. During this time, its defences were strengthened with towers on the outer area being added and the west wall rebuilt. By the 17th Century, the castle had been abandoned.

Today, very little remains of Tintagel Castle, and some imagination is required to fully appreciate the site. Since 2019, access has been via a spectacular new bridge spanning the gap between the mainland and the island. This replaces a much lower bridge that necessitated some steep climbing to access. This obviously makes the site far more accessible for less able-bodied visitors.

On the mainland, it's possible to gain an impression of how the fortifications were divided into two sections - the courtyard and its defensive walls forming the lower ward, and the upper ward with a further curtain wall, providing space for accomodation and outbuildings.

Having crossed to the island, the inner ward containing the ruins of the castle’s great hall occupies a sheltered, man-made terrace. This area is the heart of the Norman castle and offfers up the best surviving ruins. Elsewhere on the island, the outlines of various buildings are scattered across most of the level area and span both the Dumnonian and medieval periods. Although few walls survive above a height of a couple of feet, it's still possible to interpret how the site might once have looked.

Of course, the ruins aren't the main attraction here. That crown firmly belongs to the breathtaking setting that offers sweeping views out across the sea and towards the mainland. The ruins merely add an air of romance and mystery. It's into this space - and the 600 year history gap - that the Arthurian connections are firmly inserted. While dubious at best, they add a layer of myth to this stunning site that undoubtedly adds to the enjoyment that many experience here.

Unfortunately, what the legends also add is tourists: 200,000 visitors a year and up to 3000 a day in the peak summer season at the time of writing. Tintagel Castle is absolutely heaving during the spring and summer, and it's advisable to adjust your expectations accordingly. However, the island does provide plenty of space to move away from the crowds to spots where you can enjoy its windswept beauty. My advice is to wander slightly off the beaten track and wait for gaps in the numbers before returning to enjoy the ruins. Despite the crowds, this is a stunning sight that's highly rewarding to visit.